Home. Preventing and controlling cigarette beetle infestations in the home is relatively simple; insecticides should be used only as a last resort. Locating the source of infestation is the first and most important step. Heavily infested items should be wrapped in heavy plastic, taken outside and thrown away. All food containers and items should be checked for infestation. Items can be placed in the refrigerator or freezer (16 days at 36F, 7 days at 25F or 32F for four to seven days) to kill all stages. Place items in a plastic bag to reduce condensation problems during thawing. Heating small quantities of infested material in an oven (190F for one hour, 120F for 16 to 24 hours) also is effective. Uninfested items can be cold- or heat-treated to ensure that any undetected infestations are killed. To prevent reinfestation, clean up spilled flour, mixes, crumbs, etc. and thoroughly vacuum and clean areas where the contaminated items were stored. Store foods in airtight glass, metal or plastic containers. Clear containers make it easier to check for infestations. Chemical treatment using commercially available insecticides is usually not necessary. There are several insecticides and insect growth regulators labeled for use on cigarette beetles. Always be sure to read and follow the label.
Most dung beetles search for dung using their sensitive sense of smell. Some smaller species simply attach themselves to the dung-providers to wait for the dung. After capturing the dung, a dung beetle rolls it, following a straight line despite all obstacles. Sometimes, dung beetles try to steal the dung ball from another beetle, so the dung beetles have to move rapidly away from a dung pile once they have rolled their ball to prevent it from being stolen. Dung beetles can roll up to 10 times their weight. Male Onthophagus taurus beetles can pull 1,141 times their own body weight: the equivalent of an average person pulling six double-decker buses full of people.[13]
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Aristophanes alluded to Aesop's fable several times in his plays. In Peace, the hero rides up to Olympus to free the goddess Peace from her prison. His steed is an enormous dung beetle which has been fed so much dung that it has grown to monstrous size.
The official Eighth International Symposium on the Chrysomelidae was held in Daegu (Fig. 17), South Korea, on 23rd of August, 2012, in conjunction with the 24th International Congress of Entomology. That was the first Congress that I missed, and I hesitated very much, pain in my knees were responsible for my absence. I have worked in Korea during 3 years before and I knew the place, where I once collected beetles and organized aerial sprays. We used at that time the US base as a hotel, but that was many years ago. The proceedings of this meeting were printed within volume 4 of Research on Chrysomelidae, within ZooKeys, Pensoft, a normally electronic publication but which can be printed into a book. This 8th Symposium was organized by Michael Schmitt and Jong Eun Lee. Many first class papers were presented including one with the Chinese rising star of Chrysomelidae Si Qin Ge. David Furth was there with the Mexican Alticinae, Donald Windsor, Michael Schmitt, and some others presented well documented papers on various topics. The text of all those communications was available free of charge, but printing of this virtual book remains quite expensive. A success, this symposium, which precedes two more in the future, one in York, UK, in August 2014, perhaps also virtual, with the 10th European Congress of Entomology, and the 25th International Congress of Entomology, in September 2016, in Orlando, Florida, coordinated with the Entomological Society of America and a few other groups.
Some changes in taxonomy have also been proposed, based on simple morphology. Cladistics and molecular biology inspired some others (Hsiao, Farrell, Duckett, Gomez-Zurita, Reid and many others). On some big changes, I do not fully agree, mostly on the breaking of the family Chrysomelidae and the merging of Alticinae and Galerucinae, of Cassidinae and Hispinae. They are intermediary taxa. One subfamily has really merged with Eumolpinae: Megascelidinae (Jolivet 1957-1959) and one is probably correctly separated from Eumolpinae, the Spilopyrinae (Reid 2000). Those are, however, primitive Eumolpinae, but with different genitalia and behaviour. It was a feeling of Crowson and confirmed by Reid. Synetinae are an aberrant group, well characterized, and that makes for Chrysomelidae 19 subfamilies, at least for me. Recent new classifications separated Chrysomelidae and other supposedly closely related families(?) (Orsodacnidae and Megalopodidae). There are splitters for families as they exist also for species. Chrysomelidae are related also to Bruchidae, often now classified into Chrysomelidae, despite the opposition of some famous bruchidologists, as John Kingsolver (1995), Krishna K. Verma (Verma and Saxena 1996), etc. Here, splitters become mergers, but this is a personal decision, a free act. However, in agricultural journals, we find Bruchidae or Bruchinae according to the secret feelings of the authors of the papers and their convictions. Rhaebus and Eubaptus are transitional between bruchids and sagrines, as there exist also transitional genera between Cassidinae and Hispinae and between Alticinae and Galerucinae. Synetinae however seem to remain completely isolated.
Hi Vicki, Thanks for writing. If you're seeing skeletonized leaves, then you probably already have more than enough air potato leaf beetles! They multiply rather quickly and if they are already present there is no need to order more beetles. As a reminder, the beetles will never eradicate the vine. The beetle's will slow the vine's population growth and make it less vigorous. This makes it easier for us to control when you add in other control methods. We recommend hand-collecting any air potato tubers that fall to the ground, and disposing of them in your normal garbage container - not the vegetation bin! If you need further control, you can consider using herbicide or hiring a landscaping crew to do the work. The information you'll need for that is found here: -directory/dioscorea-bulbifera/#chemical Additionally, keep in mind that the beetle's are part of a natural cycle now. There will be years where the vines outcompete the beetles and vice versa. You can tip the scale to our favor by adding in the hand-removal of tubers or by applying herbicide. Picking up the "potatoes" in winter is a great landscaping activity to get kids involved, if you know any to enlist. It's generally safe and helps them learn about invasive species. :) Please feel free to email me if you have any questions, or contact your local extension office here: -your-local-office/
Hi Martin,Thank you for reading and sharing the article. Yes, a healthy palm should have a full rounded canopy. If pruning is necessary, it is recommended to prune only completely brown fronds and not to prune fronds above the 9 to 3 o'clock horizontal line. Please feel free to share the following articles on pruning palms: -palms.html and
Picked up and released my red beetles today in Oviedo and they went right to work. Hopefully they will lay a lot of legs and spread quickly to make a big dent on all of the potato vines close to my house. I will be checking on their progress and the weeks pass.
Good Afternoon Rhonda, I'm sorry to hear that you are also dealing with midges. If it's any consolation, under normal conditions, they are a valuable part of the ecosystem. In my answer to Ms. Jacob, the chemical control we don't typically recommend are contact insecticides where the midges rest, like walls, windows, and other property. The reason for this is that those "bug sprays" also kill insects which hunt and eat the adult blind mosquitoes, reducing any natural predators you may have to help with the issue and not actually tackling the issue of having too many adult midges. To answer your question briefly, yes, (S)-Methoprene is an appropriate chemical treatment for freshwater non-biting midges in Florida and is recommended by IFAS researchers. Please remember that the label is the law and you must not apply it any in any does other than the recommended dose, per label instructions. However, to answer fully, use of that treatment is recommended as part of the 4-step process described in the blog post, Freshwater Aquatic Midge Integrated Pest Management Plan. Use of (S)-methoprene is step four of this plan. For effective control of midges, IFAS researchers recommend implementing all four steps. 1.Control Algae: Midge larva eat algae. Control algae in the pond and reduce the food source.2.Stock insectivorous fish (bluegill, red ear) to biologically control aquatic midges in ponds.3.Use Light Traps in unoccupied parts of the yard and reduce or eliminate outdoor house lighting. (I recommend using motion-activated lights)4.Use of Insect Growth Regulators (IGRS) in non-natural lakes like ponds and storm water features.If you have any further questions, please feel free to email me. My contact information is on my profile. Thank you and best of luck managing this all-to-common issue! 2ff7e9595c
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